Chris Solo Central Europe, Sun Jun 18, 2023



Pécs Hungary across Croatia to Belgrade Serbia (day 7)

Ride Log

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:00am72.082 km68
9:12am9.2map
9:21am3.63 km48
9:25am3.2map
9:28am48.037 km47
10:16am4.1map
10:20am85.8101 km71
11:46am20.3map
12:06pm26.031 km72
12:32pm1.6map
12:34pm1.82 km58
12:36pm2.6map
12:38pm0.60 km34
12:39pm2.4map
12:41pm30.831 km61
1:12pm2.2map
1:14pm9.610 km61
1:24pm9.1map
1:33pm9.39 km58
1:42pm3.0map
1:45pm9.89 km53
1:55pm2.2map
1:57pm8.47 km52
2:05pm3.3map
2:09pm1.10 km22
2:10pm1.7map
2:12pm6.34 km34
2:18pm5.5map
2:23pm23.126 km67
2:46pm8.8map
2:55pm43.853 km73
3:39pm10.3map
 
8h31m6h29m moving410 km63.2 kph76% moving, 122 minutes of breaks




Breakfast

Woke up at 5:30 showered, finished drying socks, packed bike, went to breakfast buffet at 7am.

Turns out the room has a microwave oven in corner and coffee could have been warmed up in the morning.

Ate a little bit of breakfast after large meal night before.

Would be better to eat at light breakfast/coffee rather than full meal.

For breakfast had bread, eggs, orange juice at buffet

good looking buffet but not hungry enough

eggs - fried just right - no running yolk, but perfectly done. Similar buffet to others in Eastern EU.


buffet - sliced meats cheeses juice, rolls, fried eggs, hotdogs


bike parked under tree that dropped tree poop on seat, - big blopy sappy seed ball things
at gas stop used soap and water, tried thumb nail, but to no avail


gas stations have baristas so you can have a real coffee - not scenic, but good coffee

after gas station coffee, half way from Pecs to border of Croatia, maybe 20km since am, topping off gas before hinterlands of Croatia - didn’t need to because gas stations exist more frequently than expected

Braba River —border— between Hungary and Croatia
stopped on middle of bridge to take pic, in between two border checks
border check point unstaffed of Croatia
border check point unstaffed of Serbia


looking back towards Hungary


blown a fork seal - started to leak, noticed yesterday, worse today after driving on dirt roads
noticed that tablet wasn’t charging, stopped here to see milk had started leaking in tailpack, dumped milk, oiled chain, then bike wouldn’t stop.
button on Ducati didn’t work. engine kept running. fooled around and got the key to work when near front of bike, got it started and has behaved since.




really pretty ride through Park prirode papuk - twisty over the mountains thing


rock wall, then path going up to cave/streams - something to explore in this park


at top of park, pavement went away though became a pretty well graded gravel road, no deep ruts, pretty easy to ride on but blew fork seal.
while on this long road about 8-9km, some patches are getting worse, do I need to find another way around, but coming the other way were two family sedans - gave more confidence to keep going - it was very pretty but couldn’t take pics


view from a clearing at the top looking down into Croatia


paths through the forest, picnic area, river, down a cliff



dirt road keeps going on and on, at bottom is big gravel mining operation


rode on for a long time through lots of towns and farmland - 100km non stop before stopping for lunch

Lunch under a bridge in Vinkovci, watching storks


very close to border with Serbia - maybe 15min


Debugging my tablet charging issue

While eating lunch, I experimented with a new cable for tablet. Using a powerpack battery, I tried charging independently of the motorcycle power supply. The tablet indicated that it was seeing power, but it wasn't charging --- the tablet battery charge state was still going down. On a whim I tried a different cable and that fixed everything. USB cables are fragile and flapping around on a bike in the wind can quickly damage them in ways that aren't obvious. Anyway, my tablet discharging problem is resolved.



herons gliding over the river


and landing on the opposite bank.


There's another one in the plants

Crossing from HRVATSKA (Croatia) → SRBIJA (Serbia)

When leaving Croatia, the exit was staffed. I gave my passport to the officer who didn’t speak English. I tried to answer his questions, but I really had no idea what he was asking me. He held up my passport and said “chip” - “no chip” and then he kept putting passport into a machine claiming no “chip”. Eventually he gave up and let me out. I thought that was the end, but 1km later I was entering Serbia. That officer was a woman who spoke English well. She asked for bike papers. I explained about bike. She didn’t ask about Joe's note. She asked about my plans, then she handed docs back and said “welcome to Serbia, have a nice ride”. So much for being nervous about this non-EU, non-Shengen border crossing. For me, it was really completely fine, but in the other direction... leaving check point there was a row of trucks — 1,400 meters of trucks — filling up the narrow road while using up the entire lane. Cars passing those trucks heading towards Croatia were coming towards me in the one remaining lane expecting me to ride the shoulder giving them room. So there I was riding right on the edge of the road as 20-30 cars passing trucks kept me on my toes. The truck drivers are hanging out with their BBQs out - having a mile-long tailgate party. Getting into the EU is a lot more complicated than getting out.

After entering Serbia, the first town in Serbia was Sid. I saw a lot of evidence of recent war. A bombed out church, holes in “windows”, blackened as if on fire, crappy towns. Not a pretty place to visit. I didn't stop for pictures, preferring to make progress towards the hills.


I'm starting to get into prettier farmland after the crappy border towns. To the right of bike is a pretty town/church in the distance. The landscape is becoming scenic. It actually seems very similar to Croatia from here on.




I've reached Fruskagora park in Serbia. This is a big long park, up in alps, a bit cool, nicer, weaving around through the trees for about 80-100 km. As I get closer and closer to Belgrade there are more picnic-ers.



This sign is so unhelpful to me! Cyrrilic with some romanized words but nothing else for info.


Sooo pretty!


at crest can see Belgrade in distance



- crosses highway again, stopped and looked back - Restaurant nearby, people hanging out and having coffee


quite a traffic jam due to truck coming down a road the cars wanted to go up - eventually truck and cars figured it out
Pectopah 300m sign (Restaurant ahead 300 meters)


here is a funny spire thing at the top of the mountain. Looks like it was blown up in a war. A shame since it looks kind of cool and there would be a heck of a view from up there!


besieged by mosquitos

Good People Design Hostel Belgrade

This is my first ever hostel experience. Really nice place with interesting conversations.

my private "family room"


party downstairs with people blowing bubbles

Evening walk through Belgrade


out for a walk down a typical street


Lambo!


F800R - remarkably similar to the FZ07 - pretty narrow seat but gas tank under seat, so not quite as low


pedestrian mall area with pics each way - lots of restaurants in the street


In Belgrade, the signs are romanized, so easier to interpret


setting up for drive in movie thing


confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers



I really like this statue of a muscular dockworker dude



FZ07, same year as Ladybug, just black, with frame sliders, etc. 🙂


cool pedestrian walkway/bridge with elevator in the center


The old castle



Not sure who these guys are and of their significance, some sort of military museum


Not so easy to look up their names as I don't even know how to type them.



posters - all sorts of things about Belgrade


here's one of the posters down below


ping pong table in the moat


weird statue, I wonder what the story is with slavic power women




Worrying about tomorrow. Google says Serbia might be flooded.

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